Write a quick script to move the head somewhere up high, then terminate without the X-homing command. To set the Z axis home offset on the 3d printer, you will use g-code commands including M206 for the home offset, M500 and M501 for the Marlin Firmware EEPROM feature, and G1 for controlled move to Z axis zero position. Touch the end of the probe with your finger to trigger the end-stop, the following I can move it up however far I want, to let's say x+15mm. i use Marlin (from this site) on a ramps1.4 with dual endstops X and Y. I have 2 questions regarding endstops. Move your Z axis fairly high, and then 'Home Z' or G28 Z to test Z homing. The machine will then move a further -0.7mm in Z to Has anyone experienced this before? Check the fit of the paper - if it is good, and the nozzle seems to be at the correct height, then we are done with the calibration. I have full manual control of all axis... moving up/down/homing ect, all with manual control. We will proceed to uncomment the USE_ZMIN_PLUG options. You might only be able to move an axis using the + for that axes. Been using marlin 1.1 but wanted newest auto leveling and other bells and whistles. Tried to implement latest Marlin on my reprappro with ramps 1.4. // Specify here all the endstop connectors that are connected to any endstop or probe. SoliForum - 3D Printing Community → Software & Firmware → Help! See if the z-axis moves. Using Z-endstop switch is monitored when moving Z axis down via LCD menu or G0. You have to go into Prepare-Move Axis-X,Y or Z Axis, .1, 1 or 10mm then you can move one axis at a time. Specifically, the Z-axis will move down (and trigger the endstop) but it will only make a quick noise if I try to move it up. This is a very slow process from the LCD screen. x and y homing works awesome. stays at the same level during the entire print. So is it is not the drivers. When the z axis homes , it touches the endstop and moves up and homes again , but when moving down to home the second time , it moves extremely slowly , it takes 1 minute to hit the endstop again. Using Pronterface version 2013.10.19, connects to the printer (using the IDE and command line), the X Y and Z motors Move the nozzle down to level of the print bed; LCD navigation: “Prepare> Move axis> Move Z> Move minus 0.1mm increment” and make a note of the value or type “G1 Z-0.5, G1 Z-0.6″, so on, in to the serial monitor, until the I have just finished building a Tronxy P802M Prusa i3. G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up G1 X232 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position G1 X232 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line G1 X232 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little G1 X232 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 Prepare > Move axis > Move 0.1mm > Move Z Slowly move the Z axis down until you have the correct first layer gap (paper or thin card method) Note the distance on the display e.g. I had an idea the other day and I want share it with you guys and ask if you think it would be worth pursuing. X and Y homes fine but Z all of a sudden moves upwards instead of down towards the endstop/buildplate. G'day, I have a new Ord Hadron and having an issue with the Z axis. If it looks a long way above, click the Z move 1 button, then go down by 0.1 until you reach z= 0. The Z axis should move down by the Z offset we set above. My machine has a zero point which is not over the build platform, so to get the nozzle over the platform I have to move the x and y axis. Ramps 1.4 I did use M119 to test and it is open and when I touch the probe it says triggered. One of two things will happen, the paper or feeler gauge will be tight or loose. The Bed is a 200 by 200 job. The main thing here is to write down wheter an axis is moving the right direction or not. Pro-tip: You might want to keep you finger near the on/off switch on your printer. Still goes down to the same value as M851 Copy link Contributor Blue-Marlin commented May 19, 2016 • edited by thinkyhead Hmm ja. Min software stops are currently disabled, as I try to set the printer up. Z axis won't move down past the plane the extruder was at when the printer was turned on. Just to clarify I didnt add in anything extra besides changing the settings to speed that worked in my previous version. Each axis is backed off and re-bumped according to the [XYZ]_HOME_BUMP_MM and HOMING_BUMP_DIVISOR settings. Hello, I am having an issue where I click z home and it goes down a few millimeter and stops. When I try to move the Z-axis, using the hardware buttons in the LCD menu (without a computer connected), it only goes down, when I both increase, and decrease, the value of Z. To set the Z axis home offset on the 3d printer, you will use g-code commands including M206 for the home offset, M500 and M501 for the Marlin Firmware EEPROM feature, and G1 for controlled move to Z axis zero position. Navigate back to the z axis movement and increase the z axis by rotating the knob clockwise to about 2.0 representing 2mm. Problem is, the Z axis does not move up while printing! I've finished building my first Prusa i3 from 3dprinterczar and am working on getting the motors correctly calibrated and have ran into a problem. Z-Axis Move Planning in Practice And that is the big limiting factor with Z-moves: the distances are very small. I was having the motors lock up on moves. Hi, I am new in CNC but have few years experience in 3D printing. X any Y work fine, both Z motors move down just fine, when homed. Examples: I turn on the printer, and say the extruder head is at distance x from the bed. As soon The left axis continued to occasionally move down when I raised z by 1 or .1mm . Save current position and move to filament change position. I have to cancel everything. My X and Y axis both work when sending commands to move in the positive and negative direction, but my Z axis only moves up. i just have trouble make the Z axis and/or the gcode with slic3r be the correct one, x, y, and e, seems to work fine, but Z keeps struck at the Z home position, on the gcode it only move .325 on the firs Z position, i dont get to Z Attached is my configuration.h all of my changes are bounded by #ifdef ChuckMod. Baby Stepping is a feature from Marlin Firmware that allows you to move the Z-axis up or down in small increments in order to fine-tune the first layer height. This feature is usually disabled by default in Marlin but can be enabled when recompiling the firmware. Today I installed stepper dampers for X and Y. Replugged the wires and presses autohome. I have been able to draw some forms to check if it’s square. Right now I am using the LCD screen to home the machine then move to my material origin so I can set the offsets. I see. I tried swapping the pins for the clip and the plate. Write any script, and while the gantry is up high, pull I have TH3D Marlin firmware installed. In Marlin I had to set the #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT for the z axis to 1600 to get the z axis to move 10 mm when commanded to move 10 mm.. What would be the pros and cons of going to half or full steps and I inverted the Z-axis in the firmware (by setting the value to true instead of false), and it did the same thing, but the other way around - it would only go down. If combined with a Z and P field (example: G31 P312 Z0.7) this will set the Z height to 0.7mm when the Z-probe value reaches 312 when a G28 Z0 (zero Z axis) command is sent. On Z-stop trigger, right Z moves up, left Z continues to try to move down. I just finished assembly of Anet A8 (Prusa i3 clone). Ditto for X-home but not motor disable. … Once you have edited it, we are going to indicate to our dear Marlin that our 3D printer has a limit switch (sensor) on the Z axis. Everything has been running fine since updating. The patch i meant only … Unfortunately i noticed, that during print the Z-axis wont move upwoards when a new layer begins and it should move upwoards. My MPCNC is almost finished. Many 3D printers will use the combination of a threaded rod connected to your Z stepper motor shafts to … Auto-home one or more axes, moving them towards their endstops until triggered. prusa-i3 marlin electronics z-axis firmware I also exchanged bent Z-axis threaded M8 rods that came with the kit for new, more straight, stainless steel rods. 0.6 mm (0.6 mm is example, note your actual) M119 shows all endstops open. No problems there. If not, you may need to tweak the offset A move of just 0.1 or 0.2mm doesn’t give much time or space to accelerate and slow down again. This tends to be from insufficient current. I just finished a scratch build printer (cartesian) and everything works fine except the x axis is crooked when the dual Z motors move the axis up and down. X-Y dual endstops: It works fine but on the Y axis when I move the head after homing 1 motor seems to start in advance. I went to a parallel configuration. nothing I do seems to change this. 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